Solutions
FAQ
How can I identify what plastic I am working with?
The best method of identifying plastic materials is the burn test which requires burning a small sample and observing the flame color, burn duration and smell release once the flame is extinguished. Under the SOLUTIONS heading on the IPP Website is a page called "Identifying Plastics" which includes a PDF file of a chart that contains all of the methods of Identifying Plastic Materials.
When drilling Acrylic Sheet, why can't I use a standard drill bit that is meant for wood or metal?
Drill bits manufactured to cut wood or metal, have a concaved cutting edge that will chip Acrylic Sheet and may cause the material to crack. Bits designed to cut Acrylic Sheet have a flat cutting edge with a steep 60 to 90 degree rake designed to bore through the material. Under the SOLUTIONS heading on the IPP website is a paged called "Working with Acrylic" , Click on the PDF file next to the title "Drilling Acrylic Sheet" to this find out more about how to use these drill bits for use with Acrylic Sheet.
What should the Blade clearance be through the material when cutting Plastic on a Table Saw?
The tip of a Table Saw blade should protrude though the material by 1/8". Exceeding this can lead to "Material Kick Back" Under the SOLUTIONS heading on the IPP website is a paged called "Working with Acrylic" , Click on the PDF file next to the title "Cutting Acrylic Sheet with a Table Saw" to find out more about how to cut Acrylic Sheet with a Table Saw.
I don't have access to a table saw, is there another way to cut Acrylic Sheet?
There are many ways Acrylic Sheet can be cut besides a with a table saw. You can use a jig saw, router, rotary saw; you can score and break it like glass. All of these methods have various degrees of success depending on the skill level of the individual. For more information look under the SOLUTIONS heading on the IPP website for a paged called "Working with Acrylic" , Click on the PDF file next to the title Methods of Cutting Acrylic Sheet" to find out more about how to cut Acrylic Sheet.
I want to bend a piece of Acrylic Sheet what temperature do I have to heat the material to accomplish this?
You will need to heat the sheet to 290-340◦F. If you are molding the sheet you will need to heat the sheet surface uniformly and if you are bending the sheet along a straight line you will need to focus the heat into a thin narrow line. For more information go to the SOLUTIONS heading on the IPP website where there is a paged called "Working with Acrylic" , Click on the PDF file next to the title "Bending Acrylic Sheet" to view the PDF..
What is the correct name for Acrylic Sheet, as I have heard it refered to as Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, and Perspex?
Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, Perspex, are all registered brand names for Acrylic Sheet, so each one is correct for the specific brand.
Does latex paint pose a threat to those who suffer from latex allergies?
No, latex paint is not made with latex rubber; in fact the name "latex" is really just a decorative way to describe rubber-based paint. Latex paint is a carefully formulated polyvinyl material with acrylic resin and has never contained natural rubber. It is natural rubber that causes an allergic reaction. So people who have sensitivity to latex products are in no danger of having a reaction to latex paint.
Why won't paint stick to my basement Floor?
While surface contamination (oil, grease, dirt, silicone) is the most common reason paint does not stick to a surface, ground level concrete floors also pose the additional problem of moisture. Even if a floor looks dry it maybe releasing moisture into the air through evaporation. The best way to determine if a floor has a moisture problem is to place a 2' x 2' piece of cardboard or polyethylene on the floor for a week and then check the underside for moisture. This should be down during the wettest period of the year so you don't get a false reading.
Most people do not realize that concrete is porous - in fact, more porous than Swiss cheese! The pores constitute 12 to 18% of the concrete but the pores are invisible, much smaller that human hair. After concrete is poured, almost half of the water has to evaporate. As this surplus water pushes to the surface, it leaves behind a network of capillaries (pores).
The pores are much larger than water molecules. Water vapor or gases flow easily right through, drawn in by the low pressure inside buildings. But liquid water is initially held back by its surface tension, as the glob of water gets stuck inside the microscopic dry pore. However, as water enlarges the pores or they get wet by condensation, water starts seeping in. And eventually, the pores start actively pulling in water by capillary action.
Concrete blocks, particularly cinder blocks, are more permeable to water vapor than poured concrete. They all start as impermeable to liquid water but, when exposed to water, their porosity increases and they start seeping water. Even if your basement or concrete slab looks perfectly dry, deep-seal it against invisible water vapor and gases, and protect it against water migration, efflorescence, and deterioration with an Acrylic Sealer.
Garage Floors pose another problem referred to as "Hot Tire Pick-up". This is caused by parking a vehicle on a surface painted with an Acrylic Paint, the tires, hot from driving, will act like a heat gun softening the paint and releasing the coating's adhesion to the concrete surface. The best solution to this problem is to use an Epoxy Coating which is not affected by the hot tires. Remember though that Epoxy coatings do not stand up when exposed to a great deal of UV light and are not to be used in an exterior application. This includes carports that are not enclosed as UV light does not mean just Sunlight; all exterior light has harmful UV rays.
